Audemars Piguet Celebrates 150 Years: A Deep Dive into the Anniversary Releases
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(https://www.forbes.com/sites/carolbesler/2025/02/25/audemars-piguet-debuts--new-perpetual-calendar-with-crown-adjustment/)
In 2025, Audemars Piguet (AP) commemorates a remarkable milestone: 150 years of horological excellence. This sesquicentennial celebration is marked by the unveiling of a series of timepieces that not only pay homage to the brand’s rich heritage but also showcase its relentless pursuit of innovation and craftsmanship. This article delves into the standout releases, exploring their design intricacies, mechanical advancements, and the legacy they embody.
The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary”
(https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-releases-of-audemars-piguets-150th-anniversary-kickoff-live-from-le-brassus)
A Tribute to Legacy and Innovation
At the forefront of AP’s anniversary collection is the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary.” Limited to just 150 pieces, this timepiece serves as a bridge between tradition and modernity.
Design and Materials
• Case and Bracelet: The watch features a 41mm titanium case, complemented by a bracelet that combines titanium with Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG) mid-links. BMG, an alloy containing over 50% palladium, offers a unique aesthetic and enhanced durability. This material choice not only provides a contemporary look but also ensures the watch’s resilience against daily wear.
• Dial: The sapphire dial offers a transparent view into the watch’s intricate mechanics. Blue sub-dials and an inner bezel, inspired by a historic AP pocket watch, add a touch of vintage elegance. The 18k white gold applied hour markers and hands, coated with luminescent material, ensure readability in various lighting conditions.
Movement
• Caliber 5135: Powering this masterpiece is the Caliber 5135, an openworked version of the renowned Caliber 5134. Operating at 19,800 vibrations per hour, it offers a 40-hour power reserve. Notably, this movement features a suspended barrel and an openworked oscillating weight that moves along a peripheral ring with ruby rollers, reducing friction and enhancing longevity.
Availability and Pricing
Given its limited production, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary” is a coveted piece among collectors. Priced at CHF 175,000, it stands as a testament to AP’s commitment to blending artistry with horological mastery.
Introducing the Caliber 7138: A Revolutionary Perpetual Calendar Movement
Simplifying Complexity
In a groundbreaking development, Audemars Piguet introduces the Caliber 7138, a perpetual calendar movement that allows all adjustments to be made solely via the crown. This innovation eliminates the need for external correctors, streamlining the user experience.
Development and Features
• Five Years in the Making: The Caliber 7138 is the result of half a decade of meticulous research and development. AP’s engineers and watchmakers collaborated to create a movement that simplifies the traditionally complex process of adjusting perpetual calendars.
• User-Friendly Design: By enabling all calendar functions to be set through the crown, wearers can easily adjust the date, day, month, and moon phase without the need for specialized tools. This design not only enhances convenience but also reduces the risk of damage associated with external pushers.
Applications
The Caliber 7138 makes its debut in several models:
• Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar: This model features the new movement housed within AP’s iconic Royal Oak design, offering a blend of classic aesthetics and modern functionality.
• Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet: The movement is also incorporated into the Code 11.59 collection, specifically in a white-gold edition, showcasing AP’s versatility in design language.
Expanding the Code 11.59 Collection: Introducing the 38mm Tourbillon
(https://revolutionwatch.com/audemars-piguet-openworked-perpetual-calendar-38mm-tourbillon/#gallery-7)
A New Dimension of Elegance
Audemars Piguet expands its Code 11.59 lineup with the introduction of a 38mm tourbillon model, catering to enthusiasts who prefer a more compact wrist presence.
Design Highlights
• Case Dimensions: The 38mm case offers a balanced silhouette, appealing to both men and women. Its ergonomic design ensures comfort without compromising on visual impact.
• Tourbillon Complication: Positioned prominently on the dial, the tourbillon showcases AP’s dedication to precision and the art of watchmaking. The openworked design allows for an immersive view of the mechanism in motion.
Material Choices
• White Gold: The use of white gold for the case exudes a sense of understated luxury, while providing a neutral canvas that highlights the mechanical artistry within.
• Dial Variations: AP offers a range of dial options, from classic hues to more avant-garde designs, allowing collectors to select a piece that resonates with their personal style.
Embracing Ceramic: New Additions to the Royal Oak Offshore Line
Durability Meets Aesthetics
In line with contemporary trends, Audemars Piguet introduces new Royal Oak Offshore models crafted from ceramic, a material celebrated for its robustness and scratch resistance.
Colorways and Design
• Green Ceramic: This variant offers a fresh take on the classic design, with a rich green hue that stands out while maintaining versatility.
• Black Ceramic: A timeless choice, the black ceramic model exudes sophistication and pairs seamlessly with various ensembles.
Technical Specifications
• Chronograph Functionality: The Royal Oak Offshore models retain their signature chronograph features, catering to those who appreciate both form and function.
• Water Resistance: Designed with active lifestyles in mind, these watches offer substantial water resistance, making them suitable for various environments.
Reflecting on 150 Years: Audemars Piguet’s Legacy and Future
A Journey Through Time
Since its establishment in 1875, Audemars Piguet has been at the forefront of haute horlogerie, consistently pushing the boundaries of watchmaking.
Pioneering Achievements
• Royal Oak Introduction: In 1972, AP revolutionized the industry with the launch of the Royal Oak, the first luxury sports watch crafted in stainless steel. Its octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet set new design standards.
• Complication Mastery: Over the decades, AP has introduced numerous complicated watches, from perpetual calendars to minute repeaters, showcasing technical prowess and artistic flair.
Commitment to Innovation
As evidenced by the 150th-anniversary releases, Audemars Piguet remains dedicated to innovation. The development of the Caliber 7138 and the exploration of new materials like BMG and ceramic reflect the brand’s forward-thinking philosophy.
Looking Ahead
While honoring its storied past, AP continues to look to the future, embracing modern technologies and design philosophies to appeal to both traditional collectors and a new generation of watch enthusiasts.
Conclusion
Audemars Piguet’s 150th-anniversary collection encapsulates the brand’s enduring legacy and its unwavering commitment to innovation. From the meticulously crafted Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked to the user-friendly Caliber 7138, each release is a testament to AP’s mastery of horology. As the brand embarks on its next chapter, these timepieces serve as both a celebration of past achievements and a beacon guiding the future of watchmaking.